Berlin by Bus

After a rather bumpy start to our 3-day Berlin adventure, we decided to stay off the sidewalks as much as possible to avoid those crazy Berlin bicyclists! At a souvenir ship beside Checkpoint Charlie, we purchased tickets for the hop-on/hop-off City Circle Sightseeing Yellow Tour Bus. It was €20 for one day or €24 for two days (cash only) which included headphones to listen to a 2 hour tour with 18 hop-on/hop-off points in 19 languages.This was the perfect way to see the highlights of Berlin without wearing yourself out walking for miles kilometers.

My brave Mom after her accident was determined to see Berlin! To keep the sun off her bandage/wound she got a fun fedora.

Some of the beautiful Berlin architecture and the river Spree.

We got off the bus at the Brandenburg Gate to take some pics and for a Starbucks break. I forgot how amazing caramel frappuccinos were! YUM. Next, we traveled up the famous Unter den Linden street and through the lobby of the Radisson Blu home to the AquaDom {largest cylindrical aquarium in the world}.

We got back on the bus with our sights set on KaDeWe. If you're not familiar with KaDeWe, it is the largest department store in Germany. The name is actually Kaufhaus des Westens, but has been abbreviated {thankfully} to KaDeWe {remember, in German the "w" is pronounced like a "v"}. If you're looking for some amazing high-end shopping, KaDeWe is for you! When you walk in you'll see iconic brands such as Tiffany, Hermes, Cartier, Fendi, Chanel and so on. Basically the "who's who" of designers all have representation here. However, there is also a gourmet restaurant on the 7th floor and an array of delicatessens on the 6th floor. I could do some major damage here! The Fountain Pen King {my Dad} added to his collection a pen or two.

Top: Brandenburg Gate with all the tour buses {ours was the yellow one} | Middle: Holocaust Memorial. | Bottom: Reichstag Building | Right: Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church

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Lastly, before we trained back to Wiesbaden {hopefully, now you're pronouncing my city correctly "Viesbaden"} we visited the sobering {and free!} museum called Topography of Terror. In my opinion, it would be a missed opportunity if you didn't spend some time here.

The middle and bottom right photos were taken in Wiesbaden during the Holocaust.

 I've often wondered what Wiesbaden was like during the war and potentially if there were Jews hidden in my apartment- you never know! These two images show Jews being searched, registered and in the bottom image preparing to board a train to concentration camps. I hope and pray the I am always horrified and sickened by the things that took place during that era. The museum did a fantastic job of communicating both in photos and text without any "sugar coating" the events which took place. I walked away impressed that they didn't try and give excuses or cover-up the terrible things done less than a century ago.

The things this building has seen. It is now the Altes Museum situated next to the Berliner Dom.

Freedom is an incredible thing. Thousands have willingly given their lives so that you and I can remain a free people. Let's not take it for granted today or ever. On that serious note, stay safe this 4th of July weekend! God Bless America!

Tschüss!

Berlin | Beware of Bicyclists!

With luggage and tickets in hand, we were out the door by 7am sharp. German trains aren't known for their kindness to stragglers- shocking, I know. It was our first time to take the train anywhere beyond a 30-minute radius, much less a five hour ride to Germany's capital city, Berlin.

I always imagined we would take the train to most of our travel destinations, but unfortunately it's much more expensive than you would expect. In fact I saved €150 from the price quoted on the Deutsche Bahn website just by going into the train station ticket office and using a VAT form. Just a little tip for my fellow German-American travelers!

Although we didn't have a "Harry Potter compartment" and no one offered me a chocolate frog, it was still a very comfortable and easy trip! We were able to enjoy the scenery, play cards on the table between us and even get some lunch in the food cabin. What an easy way to get around Germany!

We arrived at Berlin's Hauptbahnhof {a very impressive sight alone with so many levels and trains coming and going constantly} at 2 o'clock. A ten minute cab ride later we checked-into our hotel, Courtyard Berlin City Center, to unpack and freshen up before taking in Berlin's history and sights.

 Checkpoint Charlie

Throughout the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main crossing point between East Berlin and West Berlin. It's 28-year active lifespan is remembered today with a Checkpoint Charlie Museum, actual signage used, a photo of a young Soviet soldier and on the reverse side a young American soldier symbolizing whether you're entering the former East or West Berlin. Also, you can get your picture taken {for a fee, of course} with the "American" soldiers at what was the actual checkpoint.

 Berlin Wall

The Wall was the main thing my parents wanted to see on their trip to Berlin and because it was such a beautiful day we decided to see it sooner rather than later. The part you see is the only portion of the once 103 mile long wall still standing in its original place. However, I appreciate that you can still see a cobble stone path and markers all over the city to show where it would have been.

Potsdamer Platz   

We decided to get an early dinner around the bustling Potsdamer Platz; known for its diverse restaurants, cafes and hotels as well as the Sony Center. During the late 19th century, Potsdamer Platz was the busiest intersection in all of Europe earning it Germany's first electric traffic light.

It wasn't supposed to get crazy after dinner. The plan was to walk down the street to Berlin's famous Brandenburg Gate and maybe get some gelato along the way...but neither happened.

We popped into a souvenir shop so my mom could get something for my sister (AKA something for my 7-month-old niece). Turning left out of the shop, Richard and I were in front followed by my parents. To the left was a restaurant with plenty of outdoor seating leaving us with only one narrow option to use as a sidewalk. This option was pink-ish stone and in a different pattern than the normal gray-ish sidewalk. There was no emblem of a bicycle or even a sign showing pedestrians on one side and bicycles on the other.

Here's a visual...

Thanks to Google maps, I can show you the exact location of the accident.

Not the exact spot, but a different angle of the bike path.

Suddenly, out of nowhere we see Lance Armstrong a really intense bicyclist coming at us. I remember hearing him yell something (in German, of course) and Richard and I barely got out of the way. Then I remember hearing my mom yell as she collided head-on with Mr. Cyclist and was thrown into the gravel beside a tree head-first. I'm so grateful she didn't A.hit the tree B. hit head-first on the stone or C.fall into the busy street.

Although conscious, she looked extremely disoriented, but there wasn't any obvious sign of injury initially. My immediate reaction was to gently put her head in my hands and off the gravel. That's when I saw the blood and began screaming "WE NEED HELP!!" to all the restaurant diners, who I'm sure were uncertain whether or not to get involved prior to then. Instantly a dozen or so people rushed over and did everything from call an ambulance, get her water, bring us plenty of napkins and even a chair cushion for her head.

Five minutes later I heard the "Jason Bourne siren" and saw the ambulance pull up to the edge of the accident. Fortunately enough people spoke English so we could describe what happened to the EMTs who proceeded to tell my Dad he could ride with "his woman" to the hospital in the ambulance. Mr. Cyclist stayed while all this was going on and had to give his account to the Poliezi. They offered to take us to the hospital after they filled out their accident report. After taking everyone's story of what happened and measuring how far the tables and chairs extended from the restaurant {apparently they violated the permitted distance}, we were on our way to the Berlin University Hospital- Charité. 

Three hours and three stitches later, we headed {pun intended} back to the hotel. Thankfully, it wasn't more serious than a small cut to the back of the head. Head injuries are scary and can be extremely serious, so we were all grateful that if something like this had to happen anywhere abroad at least it was in a big city in Germany and not a little village in the Caribbean. 

So, next time you're walking on a sidewalk and you think you're safe, please make sure and notice if you're in harm's way. Moral of the story: Beware of Bicyclists!! 

                                               Tschüss!

My Parents First Visit to Germany: Exploring Wiesbaden

Eleven months. That's about how long it took before my parents finally boarded a plane to cross the pond and visit Germany for the first time since we moved here. Cold weather is not their thing {although Atlanta did see more snow than Wiesbaden! #snowmageddon} so they waited until the temps would be warm enough for their liking.

I will say that Wiesbaden is beautiful this time of year when the sun emerges from hibernation and the sky remembers that it's actually blue, not a gloomy gray/white color. However, like a lot of places in Europe it can be sunny one moment and pouring down rain five minutes later. Rain coats and umbrellas are packed as reflexively as shoes or toiletries. Be prepared or be soaking wet!

DAY 1:

 My Mom and Dad arrived on a Friday morning after flying all night directly from Atlanta via Lufthansa. I didn't know if they would be feeling the jet lag immediately or not so I didn't plan anything the first day. After a quick power-nap, we set out to show them around our charming new(ish) city!

In front of the iconic Kurhaus/Wiesbaden Casino

 Richard and I showed them around some of our favorite sights of Wiesbaden including the Kurhaus, Market Church and of course the largest cuckoo clock in the world!

When you think of goods that Germany is well-known for producing, what comes to your mind? Perhaps, cars? Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Audi, Volkswagen to name a few. However, for my Dad it's all about pens. As in fountain pens. He may have been more excited to see German manufactured fountain pens than me...Kidding, but that's about how much he loves fountain pens. Within six hours of landing in Frankfurt, he had already purchased a new one from Der Papierladen Wiesbaden.

In case you're like me and didn't realize German fountain pens were a big deal, allow me to enlighten you the way my Dad enlightened me. The "Big Four" German fountain pen companies are: Mont Blanc, Lamy, Pelikan, Graf von Faber-Castell. I've learned new words like "nib" and even used it in banana grams this past weekend! {Thanks, Dad!}

We ate an early dinner at one of our favorite restaurants in Wiesbaden- Symposium. If you like amazing Greek food, excellent service and fair prices then you'll love Symposium! {bonus: they have a resident restaurant cat!}

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 DAY 2: 

Despite the rainy Saturday morning we were determined to get out and explore more of Wiesbaden. Our first stop was the Farmers Market, which takes place every Wednesday and Saturday from 7am-2pm. This is not your average Farmers Market... Imagine bright, beautiful flowers, wine from local wineries, fresh herbs, honey, rotisserie chicken, delicious cheeses, freshly baked bread and of course a rainbow of fruits and vegetables. In addition to these products, there are food trucks with all kinds of goodies ranging from coffee and pastries to bratwurst and pommes frites {french fries- but pommes frites is so much more fun to say!}

On this particular Saturday there was live music {in English too!}, more vendors than usual including my favorite: The Bagel Guys-or so I refer to them even though it's actually run by ladies. 

Since it was raining, I didn't take pics, but these are from other days at the Farmers Market.

After some delicious gelato we were ready to venture to the highest peak in Wiesbaden- The Neroberg. We walked to the nearby bus stop at the corner of Friedrichstraße & Wilhelmstraße to take the bus {an easy €9 group day pass) toward the Nerotal. The bus drops you off right beside the booth where you purchase your tickets {€3.30 per person/round trip} and board Germany's oldest water ballast-driven cog-and-rack railway-- 126 years to be exact!

The 3.5 minute ride uses gravity and water weight to pull one of the trains up the mountain meanwhile the other train coming down the mountain is piloted to gauge the break. The Nerobergbahn is only open from April - October; however, you can always hike to the top.

At the top of the Neroberg, there are several "attractions" such as a WWI & WWII memorial for German soldiers, a cafe/restaurant, a beautiful Monopteros {gazebo-ish} with incredible views of Wiesbaden and Mainz, also a classy swimming pool called the Opelbad and the famous golden Russian Orthodox Church.

 

"15,680 comrades not returned"

Thankfully the sun came out so we could enjoy our afternoon on the Neroberg together! We had another low-key evening and went to bed early so we wouldn't miss our super-early train the next morning to Berlin!

Tschüss!

Surprise trip to Cologne, Germany

I am a huge fan of surprises, but part of the fun for me is trying to figure out what the surprise is. Perhaps I've watched one (or 100) too many CSI/NCIS/Law & Order episodes in my life, but part of my enjoyment is figuring out who really did 'it' before it becomes super obvious. This same premise applies to my real life... to a fault. I become suspicious and create elaborate scenarios in my mind with the slightest unusual behavior/phrase. Therefore, my husband has learned it's virtually impossible to truly 100 percent surprise me {Maybe I should have been a private investigator?}

This time he pulled it off!

Upon returning from a 2.5 week trip home to Atlanta, he wanted to sweep me off my feet for a romantic weekend away-- Well that's how I saw it at least! This was the only clue I was given: "Don't plan anything for this weekend. We're going somewhere." I'm not embarrassed to say my investigation began the next day he left for work, but all my research still came up short.

 Destination: Cologne (aka Köln)

Cologne's claim to fame is its gigantic Gothic Cathedral- in fact it's the largest in Germany. If you've even been to Notre Dame, it's pretty similar. It's hard to believe that its construction began back in the 13th century, but it wasn't completed until the 19th century. This amazingly complex cathedral, or Dom as it's referred to by Germans, was hardly damaged during WWII while 95 percent of the city was destroyed. I'm told it was hit by only 15 bombs...German engineering gets another gold star in my book!

Directly at the back of the church is the famous Shrine of the Magi (above). Yes, magi as in "We Three Kings of Orient Are." Their bones were acquired {bet that was an interesting conversation} in the 12th century for Emperor Friedrich I Barbarossa. As you can imagine, this really put Cologne on the map with pilgrims from all over the world visited the medieval city. 

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You say "touristy" like it's a bad thing...

Let's face it. I'm an American living in Germany. That makes me a tourist. Right? I think so which is why I don't mind being called one. After all, if that means seeing the most important things and eating at popular places what's so wrong with that?

We asked the front desk attendant at our hotel, Marriott Courtyard Cologne, to recommend a place to eat our first evening. He suggested Früh with the caveat "it's touristy." In this case touristy meant fabulous!

As a beer hall, you would expect the beer to be delicious, but the food was also excellent and reasonably priced (for Germany). The waiter kept a tally of how many beers you have on a coaster {since they're small and go quickly!} Fun fact: the city's has its own distinct type of beer (known as Kölsch). I found it especially tasty and I'm usually not a beer drinker. Prost!

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Eau de Cologne

If you guessed that Cologne is the birthplace of Eau de Cologne , you'd be correct! As if a surprise trip didn't get him enough bonus points, my sweet husband agreed to take me to the Farina Haus which is where inventor Johann Maria Farina produced the famous scent in 1709. I would highly recommend it if you're ever in Cologne! For only 5 euro and 45 minutes it's well worth your time. You can either sign up online or in  person, but please note that only a select few tours are in English.

Not only was the Farina Haus still located at its original famous address of 4711, but the tour guide dressed up as Mr. Farina! He gave the entire presentation from Farina's perspective and showed us around all four floors of the building.

Farina's fragrance was so popular that Napoleon himself used a bottle {think the size of a beaker} per DAY! He even had a special pocket added to hiS riding boots so he could always apply even on the go. Crazy, right? Especially considering that a bottle of this size went for today's equivalent of 2,000 euro {$2,730}.

In a day and age when people rarely bathed and tried to mask their B.O. with strong fragrances that resulted was either a massive headache or passing out. Sometimes both! Eau de Cologne, with its light and sweet scent, revolutionized the idea that less really is more when it comes to fragrances. So true, Mr. Farina, so true.

Lastly, I would recommend walking around the Old Town down near the Rhine. Make sure to get some lunch outside near the Fischmarkt to get a great view of the pastel homes, Groß St. Martin {circa 960} and of course the lovely Rhine river.

Tschüss!